Somalia can leap frog from its current state to a developed country

On the eve of the Somali Conference in London, I write about my inaugural visit to the Somali capital Mogadishu a fortnight ago, against advice of friends and relatives. Their concerns were understandable, given media reports of the situation in the country.

During my stay in the city, I was encouraged by the sense of hope and determination by the population. Their level of awareness of current affairs within and outside the country was impressive. I was informed of commendable efforts by the Government to restore law and order. Traffic policemen were on the roads directing vehicular traffic. The President was personally spearheading the recovery of Government assets which were used as shelter by internally displaced persons (IDP). Despite the non provision of alternative shelter to the IDP’s, there was excitement among residents about the exercise, which they said was proof of the Governments existence.

My general tour of city was emotional. I could recollect names of prominent places I had heard of before, such as Maka Al Mukaram road, Tres Piano, Dagaxtur, Kilomitar  4 and Tarbun. I was touched by the level of destruction, a clear sign of what it has been through. This was evident from historical monuments like the cathedral, stature of Seyyid Maxamed Abdullah Hassan and the Dagax tur. While I admired the resilience of the people who had survived the difficult times, I pitied all those who lost their lives, properties and those displaced.

In most parts of the city, life seemed normal. Businesses were open and people were going about their daily chores. I was informed that former residents were returning and rehabilitating their houses. On one of the main roads, teenage boys were busy playing football oblivious of any activity in their surroundings. Water and electricity were reliably available and unlike in Nairobi, there were no signs of temporary water storage tanks or candles. Street lights were restored in certain parts of the city and night driving created a sense of high spirits.

I witnessed many people living in temporary shelters in various parts of the city. The intensity of destitution was evident.  To me, life seemed relatively cheap compared to Nairobi. However, with the level of destruction, unemployment and destitution, I believe life is very expensive for most residents.

The residents have learnt to deal with incidents as they occur. While sporadic gunshots will easily catch my attention, for residents it was “caadhi” (normal). On my first day, a suicide bomb killed about 16 people outside Muna Hotel, barely 500 meters from where I was. Surprisingly, I was not shocked. I think I was psychologically prepared. My colleague was able to take the picture below immediately after the blast.

Amidst other pressing needs, the Government understands the benefits of the postal service and is keen to have it revived as soon as possible. The postal service last operated in April 1991, about 21 years ago. This means that children who were then 10 years of age and are now 31 years old do not understand what a post office is. My visit to the former Mogadhisu General Post Office (GPO) was memorable. I met a remarkable team of postmen who are eager to re-establish the post after two decades of inactivity. The GPO building (below) has been rehabilitated to a large extent and stands out in the midst of ruined buildings dotting the street.

The sniper holes and bullet marks on the inside walls have as story to tell. One sniper hole graffiti has the drawing of a heart with the inscription, hadal yar iyo hool badan (less talk and more work). The bullet ridden walls of the building across the street are evident that the sniper truly meant his words.

I was impressed by a very young innocent looking security officer who was keen to learn more about Face Book. An office administrator was helping him out when the security supervisor walked in and reprimanded him. The officer pleaded with his superior and was allowed to continue but not to focus on Face Book at the expense of security. The young man later told me he had been in college before he got a job with the Government. Although he had to suspend his studies, he did not want to lose the opportunity to improve himself. I was left wondering how many children are losing the opportunity to go to school and improve their lives.

A significant number of the Somali community are now scattered all over the world, as a result of the two decade civil strife. Those living in the Diaspora are lucky to have had sufficient exposure of what it means to live together irrespective of tribal inclination. They got an opportunity to live in peace with other societies, got good education, exposure to development and other social services. They have made friends and speak a myriad of languages in those countries. If harnessed, the Diaspora human capacity plus the innate Somali entrepreneurial spirit, can, in no time, leap frog Somalia from its current state to a developed country.

My heart and prayers goes out to the Somali people and their Government as they converge in London to chart a way forward for their country. The difficulties they have surmounted should be the strength to push them to prosperity.